morning routine, oxygen saturation and pulse. and chris with an attitude.

the big, flowery thermos is what they keep boiled water in. it’s what we drink.

I supposed they could be related. I just didn’t want a separate post for each.

Dung is valuable here. It is collected, dried, and used for fuel. It’s really only slightly processed grass after all. It’s what heated our tea houses. Wood is scarce and expensive. Dung patties drying in the sun were photogenic. In fact we had a dung photography contest which, in the end, only Tara and I contributed entries. More on that later.

Not many wildflowers at the altitude and season. In the spring the hills are covered with rhododendron blooms. But now there are only a few sources of color

best to keep clear and let them pass…on the street or on the trail. or anywhere else for that matter.
apple strudel in namche did not disappoint.

Hiked to the top of the ridge this morning for acclimitization and to see, weather permitting, mt everest. we were not disappointed.  been looking forward to this view for longer than i know. ama dablam, considered by mountain enthusiasts to be the most majestic mountain, is to the right.

Continued up to the Everest View hotel, probably the highest luxury hotel in the world. Built by the Japanese, it is aesthetically beautiful in its siting and design. Guests can hop a helicopter from Kathmandu to a little landing pad below the hotel. We marveled at the views from the back patio, posed for the only complete group picture of the trip, and had an overpriced coffee. Actually in this setting can anything really be overpriced?

Hiked back to Namche. Had a fleeting feeling that I’d seen Everest and why was I going to put myself through the next almost two weeks of misery to see it even closer? No way out, though. Thankfully.

Strolled through the markets (it is Namche *Bazaar* after all) and bought a yak bell. What, you don’t have one?

Ram Kaji sets up dinner.

hiked from phakding, where we spent last night, to namche bazaar (11,200′). the morning was a pleasant up and down hike that took us through river valleys and on suspension bridges. our first test was the second part of the hike…a sustained several thousand foot steep climb into namche.

we still can’t help being awed by the views. days have been in the 60’s, clear in the morning, with some clouds coming in the afternoon.

the tea house (surprisingly) has lots of amenities including hot showers, wifi, and great views. it has a fine french name too…camp de base. one member of the group has been fighting violent food poisoning and two others have mild altitude sickness. tomorrow is an acclimatization day which we’ve learned does not mean that we rest. it means that we hike higher, and then come back to namche. ‘climb high, sleep low’

Coming to rest for the first night in Phakding, none of us knew what to expect as far as lodging or anything else, really. Tea houses consist more or less of a communal eating area and then other buildings with basic, unheated rooms. At Phakding our rooms had private bathrooms and showers (all the same room), one weak fluorescent light in the ceiling, and walls so thin they might as well have been fabric. You could hear the people on the other side of the wall think.  But not to complain. As we got higher the showers started to disappear, then the bathrooms. Future posts will deal with the long drop toilets.

Here was my first room:

As for who carried our duffles, it was the dzokios. A dzokio is a sterile cross between a yak and a cow. Yaks are still used at higher altitudes. They both wear bells with the most wonderful soft sound. But when you hear that sound on the trail you pay attention! You quickly find a wide spot to stand in on the *inside* edge of the trail to let the dzokio or yak caravans pass. The animals are docile and well behaved and won’t hurt you if you don’t do anything sudden and stupid. But those horns are large and sharp.

Katie at the gate to the rest of our destiny. “Have a nice trek.”

We set off for Phakding (8700′) where we would spend our first night. This was a slight decrease from Lukla at 9100′. The first views of the green valleys looked as though they had been painted.

Mani stones…always keep left.  Suspension bridges…go with the rhythm.

Everyone but Barbara (acclimatizing in Namche Bazaar). All smiles!

Left to right (back): Jon, Andy, Kerry, Tara, Katie, Steve, Derek, x, Mani?, Randy, Deana, Hilly. Front: Chris, Diane, Joanne, Abby

all the buildup stress was for naught. clear skies, took off just after dawn, spectacular views of the himalayas, and a perfect landing. everyone cheered. we have a video for a later youtube entry. set out for phakding, about 5 miles away, and spent the night there.

P.S. Yes, we were all aware that this airport is considered one of the most (‘the’ most, on one list) dangerous airports in the world and we had all seen the youtube video and none of us talked about it until afterwards. Good to get the landing behind us.

Less than ten minutes after we landed the plane was unloaded, turned around with new pa
ssengers and baggage, and was off on its way back to Kathmandu.

Met at something like 5am in the lobby to start the real part of this trip. Across the tarmac to the little Tara Air Twin Otter. Off to meet our fate. Nice clear morning for the VFR flight.